Herringbone is the most requested pattern we fit, and the least forgiving. Everything depends on setting out: get the centre line and the first row right and the rest follows; get them wrong and the error compounds across the room until it is obvious in every doorway.
Herringbone, double herringbone and chevron
Classic single herringbone lays rectangular planks at 90 degrees to each other in a staggered zig-zag. The plank ends are square-cut, so the pattern is created purely by the arrangement. This is the traditional Victorian and Edwardian look you see in period London houses.
Double or triple herringbone uses two or three planks side by side as a single unit before turning. It covers ground faster, reads as a larger-scale pattern, and works better in big open-plan rooms where a fine single herringbone can look busy.
Chevron is different: the plank ends are cut at an angle — usually 45 or 60 degrees — so the planks meet point to point in a continuous V. It is a cleaner, more contemporary look, and it costs more because the planks are purpose-cut and there is no room for adjustment.
Setting out: the part that matters most
Herringbone is never started at a wall. It is set out from a centre line established for the room, usually running along the length of the main sightline — often the line from the main door or the hall entrance. The first double row is laid dry along that line and checked for square before anything is fixed.
The centre line is chosen so the cut planks at the perimeter are balanced, roughly equal on both sides, and so no wall ends with a sliver of plank. In an open-plan space this often means the pattern is centred on the room the eye sees first rather than mathematically centred on the whole floor.
Every few rows the fitter should re-check squareness against the original string lines. Herringbone amplifies error: a one-millimetre drift per plank becomes a visible slope after twenty planks. This is why the pattern takes roughly twice as long as straight-plank laying.
Subfloor requirements are stricter
Herringbone has far more joints per square metre than a straight-plank floor, and every joint is a place where an uneven subfloor shows itself. Tolerance should be no worse than 3mm over a 2-metre straightedge — tighter than for a normal floor.
In practice, that means most herringbone jobs include latex self-levelling over concrete, or a 6mm plywood overlay on suspended timber floors. Skipping preparation to save money on a herringbone floor is the most reliable way to end up with lipping between planks and a pattern that catches the light unevenly.
For glue-down herringbone, the subfloor also needs to be clean, dry and primed. Moisture testing on concrete is not optional — a failed adhesive bond under a herringbone floor cannot be repaired in one small area.
Cost and waste
Expect to pay a labour premium of 40–70% over a straight-plank floor of the same material. A herringbone LVT installation typically comes out at £65–£100 per square metre supplied and fitted; engineered oak herringbone runs £95–£160.
Waste allowance should be 12–15%, against 7–8% for straight planks. The perimeter cuts on a herringbone floor are angled and largely unusable elsewhere, and the pattern demands consistent plank lengths, so offcuts help less than they would otherwise.
Both figures are worth accepting rather than negotiating away. Herringbone is a visual feature — the whole point is that it looks precise. Rushing it to hit a lower price defeats the purpose of choosing it.
- Labour: 40–70% above straight-plank rates
- Waste allowance: 12–15%
- Subfloor tolerance: 3mm over 2m, so preparation is usually required
- LVT herringbone fitted: £65–£100 / m² · engineered oak: £95–£160 / m²
Common mistakes
Starting from a wall. Walls in South East London houses are almost never square or straight, and a pattern started against one will run out of true across the room.
Mixing A and B planks incorrectly. Many herringbone products are supplied as left and right planks that must alternate. Fitting them in the wrong sequence produces a pattern that looks right at a glance but has mismatched bevels and grain direction.
Ignoring the doorway. The threshold is where the eye lands, so the pattern should be planned to arrive at the doorway cleanly. Deciding where the doorway cut lands is part of setting out, not something to sort out at the end.
Insufficient expansion gap. Herringbone floors, particularly floating ones, need the same perimeter expansion as any other floor. Trapping the pattern against a threshold bar causes peaking in the middle of the room.
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Frequently asked questions
How much more does herringbone flooring cost to fit?
Typically 40–70% more in labour than the same material laid as straight planks, plus a higher waste allowance of 12–15% rather than 7–8%.
Does herringbone need a special subfloor?
It needs a flatter one. Aim for no more than 3mm deviation over a 2-metre straightedge, which usually means latex levelling over concrete or a plywood overlay on timber floors.
What is the difference between herringbone and chevron?
Herringbone uses square-cut planks meeting at 90 degrees in a staggered zig-zag. Chevron uses angle-cut planks meeting point to point in a continuous V, which is cleaner-looking and more expensive.
Can herringbone be laid in a small room?
Yes, but use a smaller plank format so the pattern has room to read. In a small room a large-format herringbone can look cramped, whereas a fine pattern makes the space feel more considered.